Dandyism: A style revolution at the Met Gala

Dandyism, a bold and flamboyant fashion movement, is experiencing a powerful resurgence, driven in large part by Black fashion icons. Known for its distinct sartorial elegance, dandyism has been reinvented and redefined throughout history, especially within the Black community. The Met Gala, a celebration of avant-garde fashion, will shine a spotlight on this movement during its 2025 spring exhibition, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style. The exhibit, inspired by Monica Miller’s book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, traces the evolution of Black style, with a particular focus on dandyism from the 18th century to the present day.
Originally, dandyism referred to the refined and often aristocratic style seen in figures like Beau Brummell, a 19th-century icon of Regency England. However, this notion of elegant, leisurely dressing has been recontextualized over time. In the wake of the trans-Atlantic slave trade, dandyism was adapted as a form of resistance, self-expression, and liberation. In the 18th century, Black servants in England, forced to wear uniforms like gold and silver collars with padlocks, were often seen as luxury items—an image forced upon them by their owners. Yet, despite the restrictions, they found ways to express their individuality through these garments.
Jonathan Square, an assistant professor at the Parsons School of Design and adviser for the Met exhibit, notes that these early Black dandies used clothing as a form of resistance. Through their fashion, they subtly pushed back against a system that tried to strip away their identity. As Miller writes in her book, enslaved people in America, even with limited personal belongings, cherished their clothing, using it as a symbol of remembrance, distinction, and a way to escape the mental shackles of bondage.
After the Civil War and Emancipation, Black Americans reclaimed their autonomy and sought to define their place in a world that had long excluded them. The Harlem Renaissance, a cultural and artistic movement that flourished from the 1920s to the 1930s, was a critical moment in this process. During this time, Black people in cities like New York, Chicago, and Los Angeles began to assert their identity boldly, not only through their art but through their fashion. The Harlem Renaissance was the birthplace of Black excellence in style, where men donned sharp suits, fedoras, and two-toned oxfords, while women embraced furs, beaded dresses, and billowing silhouettes. The assertion of presence through clothing became a form of defiance against the racial prejudices that sought to keep Black people invisible.
Brandice Daniel, the founder of Harlem’s Fashion Row, notes that the Harlem Renaissance gave fashion "a soul," giving rise to a visual identity that is still influential today. Black Americans, in particular, began to challenge the dominant fashion norms, finding power in self-styling and individual expression.
One of the most iconic looks to emerge from the Harlem Renaissance was the zoot suit. Defined by high-waisted, draped pants and oversized jackets with exaggerated shoulders and large lapels, the zoot suit became a symbol of defiance. Due to fabric rations during World War II, owning and wearing a zoot suit was an act of protest, signaling a refusal to conform to wartime restrictions. The suit’s excessive use of fabric took up space and made a statement: it was an act of rebellion. The zoot suit also became associated with the Zoot Suit Riots of 1943, a violent clash between servicemen, police officers, and Mexican-American and Black men. Despite the riots, the zoot suit remains a prominent symbol of Black defiance, continuing to influence gender-fluid designs in modern fashion.
Dandyism is not limited to men. While the style originated with male figures, women in the Harlem Renaissance also adopted and subverted these fashion norms. Blues singer Gladys Bentley, for instance, embodied dandyism by wearing a tuxedo and top hat, challenging gender expectations in fashion. In contemporary times, singer and actor Janelle Monáe has become an icon of the modern dandy, often seen on the red carpet in whimsical, tailored suits with oversized hats and ornate bow ties. Monáe’s style blends traditional masculinity with feminine flourishes, showcasing the fluidity of dandyism across genders.
Monáe, who is on the host committee for this year's Met Gala, continues to be a driving force in the ongoing evolution of dandyism. As she and other guests arrive in their “Tailored for You” looks, the night will celebrate the enduring influence of Black dandyism, paying homage to the fashion revolutionaries who paved the way for today’s style icons.
The legacy of Black dandyism is one of empowerment and defiance. As the fashion world continues to evolve, Black figures in the industry—whether designers, stylists, or icons like Dapper Dan and the late André Leon Talley—are finally receiving recognition for their contributions to the fashion world. Ev Bravado, co-founder of the fashion label Who Decides War, remarks that Black men and women are finally being celebrated as the style icons they are, acknowledging the ancestral work displayed in their fashion choices.
As the Met Gala and the Superfine: Tailoring Black Style exhibit shine a light on this history, it is clear that Black dandyism is not just a fashion statement—it's a cultural revolution. The boldness, creativity, and resistance embodied by this style continue to inspire future generations, proving that fashion can be a powerful tool for self-expression and social change.